K is for Kit

Suppose you were a well-bred 18th-century gentlewoman. What would you wear while blatantly admiring the male of the species exerting himself at rowing? From the very start of 'regattas', the grand aquatic galas and post-race concerts of the 1770s, women's fashions were as much a part of the spectacle as the fireworks and music. From dressing in white, to contrast with the Thames swans (who were specially dyed-black), to reading about the regatta parties in the 'Ladies' Almanack for 1775', upper-class women were expected to be knowledgeable about such entertainments. 

To attend Glasgow's regattas was to participate in a live-action pageant, 'on horseback and in gigs, which by their moving up and down, gave … animation to the scene' (1829). From then onwards, 'seeing to be seen' was an integral part of attending. The ever-present military bands were colourful enough, but the press always complimented the 'gaily dressed throng of ladies' (1841). Written descriptions suggest that the actual pullers' 'uniforms' were inspired by those of the famous Oxbridge crews, with striped jumpers, white canvas trousers and caps.

Of course, there were individual variations, according to budget and before the days of specialised sporting gear. Straw 'boaters' and neckerchiefs were derived from naval uniforms, and rowing manuals show the athletes in close-fitting, and frequently long-sleeved tops and again, like early footballers, in breeches resembling 'long johns'. One 1866 manual recommended expensive, tailor-made kit - woollen layers to gradually strip off, above a thin Merino jersey, a 'pilot-cloth boating coat' with elasticated wrists for warmth, and canvas shoes. Leather-lined flannel trousers prevented chafing, but also hardened due to sweating and just getting wet. The coach would as soon omit the chamois lining as 'row without the trousers themselves '!

Artisan crews on modest budgets probably had to adapt clothes more readily to hand – much early sports kit resembles 'combinations' or underclothing made of cheaper cotton and woollen fabrics. There is inevitably less information about how working-class teams (or, more probably, their wives and mothers) created their training and competitive gear in the 1860s-80s. As sports became more mass-participatory, the strips and footwear for one discipline were often adapted for another activity.

Regattas and textiles have always been intertwined – as demonstrations of wealth, and latterly as the name of a vertical-striped, hard-wearing twill cloth. Loose 'regatta' work-shirts were advertised in the 1840s as 'best Glasgow regattas in stripes and figures'.   

A (male) journalist suggested the rowing 'uniform' for the ephemeral Clyde Ladies' Club of 1893, with predominantly naval colours imitating contemporary men's kit. It comprised 'blue serge [woollen] walking skirt, blue and white striped Garibaldi [loose blouse], and a tricky straw boater with broad ribbon'. Although we imagine that their corsetry may have restricted deep breathing –women still undertook heavy work while wearing it, so it was more flexible than modern clichés suggest. Appearance and 'correct turnout' mattered to men too – the smartness of a crew's clothing 'presented a grand and imposing sight' (1849), and drew praise during each season's opening flotilla.

Today, the most ubiquitous piece of rowing kit is the 'onesie' or unitard, usually printed with club colours and logos. Most are made from spandex, a stretchy, form-fitting synthetic material invented in 1959, though perhaps better known by its trademark name, 'Lycra'. Like many synthetic fibres, the production and disposal of Lycra has negative environmental impacts. Lycra is made from petroleum-based chemicals, and the production of these chemicals contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and other environmental issues. In addition, Lycra and other synthetic fibres do not biodegrade. Microfibres shed during washing can end up in waterways and oceans, where they are ingested by wildlife.

While rowing does not have the same environmental impact as other sports, such as football, where a vast fan base is encouraged to purchase this season's kit on an annual rotation, there is a growing awareness of the need to rethink our current practices. As part of the West Boathouse project, club members have developed an Environmental Policy, with some handy advice on ways to reduce our impact.